This is finally finished and photos have been taken, please excuse the wrinkles, my iron died today. -.-
Run down of all the layers.
Cotton/linen smock: Machine sewn with hand finished seams and hems. Cuffs: Machine "blackwork" with silk thread, hand hemmed, they lace on to the smock cuffs with fingerloop braid so I can change them out as needed and wash them separately. Rust red petticoat: same one I wear with all my clothing. Farthingale: Made years ago from bottle green shot curtains and cottong twill, it used to be boned with plastic tubing but I redid it with wire rope, I need to rework this again with a lighter grade, it weighs about 5 pounds (Or at least feels like it). Laces to kirtle bodice.
Side lacing kirtle bodice: Cotton twill lined with muslin face/upperbodied with velvet where it shows with brass and glass pearls edging. No boning. Velvet kirtle skirt based off of Juan de Alcega's patterns, lined in cotton, can be laced to the kirtle bodice. The tie in undersleeves are of the same velvet, flatlined to black cotton twill and edged with black satin, more glass pearls catch them together between faux linen/cotton poofs.
Green silk dupioni-ish gown, spiral laces up through hand done silk eyelets, interlined with cotton twill and lined with linen/rayon blend. Placard is lightly boned and hooks over it. The skirt is flatlined with light weight cotton and lined with a warm brown linen/rayon blend. The bodice pattern is my own adjusted for use in both the gown and kirtle. The Skirt pattern is Tudor Tailor with a bit of tweaking as are the sleeves. I had interlined the back pleats with wadding but in the end it was too much poof.
The french hood is based on [link] Sarah Lorraine's research, it is all held together/on with pins. When I have time I'll switch out the paste with something less matchy.
Garters are twill tape with small gold accents
The only things I did not make are my socks (from SockDreams) and shoes. But I'm open to learning if anyone wants to teach me to knit or send over shoemaking elves.
I love this dress! I want to be able to make my own Tudor-styled dress; can you do a step-by-step thing so I can learn? Lol. I hardly know how to sew but my friend is teaching me that. All I want to know is how to make a dress like this lol
Hi Angelica, I'm glad you like my gown. This is not a project for a beginner sewer, I drafted most of my own patterns from scratch, or scaled them up from historical books and resources.
Start with a simple project and learn the basics of sewing, seam finishes, threads, needle types and machine feet. Read everything you can get your hands on about sewing, hit google for Tudor Dress Diary, or Elizabethan Dress Diary and read and read and read. That is how I learned.
Once you have done a few projects and worn them then take a look at the Simplicity Tudor Gown and Underpinnings pattern.
You did some amazing work. Looks like you stepped out of a Henrician illumination. Ususally I find that if it's a slubbed silk taffeta, but the slubs are really tiny and not as frequent as you'd see in normal, very textured Dupioni, then they call it Shantung (and charge extra). I love sock dreams. <3 Did you use the Tudor Tailor for a guide or inspiration or anything, or just your own research?
Thank you! The silk was a lucky find at Joanns of all places during a red tag 50% off sale, so I snagged it for 4 bucks a yard. I still ended up being short a few yards so there was an epic country wide fabric hunt for more of it thanks to one of the renn costume boards I'm on.
It really is more like a very cheap shantung, it is very very thin so I flat lined it within an inch of its life.
I used the Tudor Tailor for the gown skirt, in which I cut the back panel of the skirt backwards opps... part of the over sleeves and scaled down the undersleeves to fit. The kirtle underbodice and gown bodice are my own blocks because it was just easier to use them then try and scale the TT pattern down enough. I also used Juan de Alcega's book [link] , Patterns of Fashion, Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII's England, wills and inventories for a general idea of what was used for gowns and kirtles, Bess Chilver's flickr stream, Tudor paintings and drawings, and looked at many many pictures from Kentwell's reenactments for tiny details like where the sleeve cap would hit on different people and back pleating.
Start with a simple project and learn the basics of sewing, seam finishes, threads, needle types and machine feet.
Read everything you can get your hands on about sewing, hit google for Tudor Dress Diary, or Elizabethan Dress Diary and read and read and read. That is how I learned.
Once you have done a few projects and worn them then take a look at the Simplicity Tudor Gown and Underpinnings pattern.
[link]
[link]
Thank you for the advice and everything
And its a beautiful gown
Ususally I find that if it's a slubbed silk taffeta, but the slubs are really tiny and not as frequent as you'd see in normal, very textured Dupioni, then they call it Shantung (and charge extra).
I love sock dreams. <3
Did you use the Tudor Tailor for a guide or inspiration or anything, or just your own research?
It really is more like a very cheap shantung, it is very very thin so I flat lined it within an inch of its life.
I used the Tudor Tailor for the gown skirt, in which I cut the back panel of the skirt backwards opps... part of the over sleeves and scaled down the undersleeves to fit. The kirtle underbodice and gown bodice are my own blocks because it was just easier to use them then try and scale the TT pattern down enough. I also used Juan de Alcega's book [link] , Patterns of Fashion, Rich Apparel: Clothing and the Law in Henry VIII's England, wills and inventories for a general idea of what was used for gowns and kirtles, Bess Chilver's flickr stream, Tudor paintings and drawings, and looked at many many pictures from Kentwell's reenactments for tiny details like where the sleeve cap would hit on different people and back pleating.